Reducing Downtime - Part 1

Part 2

Many of the photographs that I value most have come about from fleeting serendipitous opportunities. In these circumstances a few lost seconds can easily mean that the opportunity is missed. I have many favourite techniques and methods that I follow as a means to get the results I'm after - these will doubtlessly form the subject of future articles, for the time being here are my thoughts on reducing downtime in the field. The following is a list of points that I try to follow specifically to minimise my downtime and the potential for lost photographs in the process.

Always on. My camera is out and always on when I'm using it - regardless of the drain on the battery I don't ever want to miss an opportunity because I didn't have the camera on when I've taken the effort to carry it around all day.

Metering check. I pre-meter so I have an idea of exposure and keep an eye on the light and when it changes so I'm aware of how my shutter speed will alter - I always use aperture priority so I pay attention to the light to make sure that when it changes I won't be caught out and find my reciprocal shutter speed inappropriate for the subject.

Keep it clean. I'll clean all my lenses the night before I'm going to use them and during use will periodically check front elements to make sure nothing's dirty.

Range. If I'm in a situation where I don't know what sort of opportunities will arise I'll start with my mid range zoom on the camera, the 28-70 mm AFS lens is a good all-rounder in this respect. If I know I'll be concentrating on wider or longer focal lengths I'll mount the corresponding lens - but I'll do this as part of my beforehand preparation so that when I need to I can pick up and go.

The inside of my Lowepro Mini Trekker Classic with everything in its place

The pair of zips to the main compartment of my Lowepro Mini Trekker Classic that I always do up at the top of the pack when ever it's closed

My recently purchased 8 GB CF card - chosen to reduce time lost changing over cards

Familiarity. I have a standard set of equipment that I'll take with me - bodies and lenses stay in the same place in my bags so I know where to find them without digging and even though for some occasions taking all my kit with me may be more than I'll need this means I'm not changing the combination of equipment that I have with me so I don't forget to pack something the next time I go out. Minor aspects such as always doing up my camera bag in the same way with the zips drawn in the same position might seem obsessive but it means everything's just where I expect it to be when I need access to it fast.

Kit check. I'll check everything's in order before I go and consider how to best carry all my kit and in what, that I have sufficient charged batteries, film/media and any additional equipment (like my ladder that folds into the boot of my car - used for getting up high).

Carry on. I have a backpack style pack and a shoulder bag and will use one or the other depending on the situation, when I'll be continually changing lenses and need access to many bits of equipment I'll use the shoulder bag so that I can rummage around in it while I'm on the go. Now that I've begun to accumulate some heavy equipment I do find it more comfortable to carry my kit in a backpack (I currently use a Lowepro Mini Trekker Classic) the weight distribution is far better, although access is slower.

Capacity. I buy the biggest capacity memory cards as I can afford (currently 8 GB SanDisk Extreme III), changing a roll of film or memory card will take valuable time and disrupt my rhythm, larger capacity cards mean I need to make fewer card changes. If I get near to the end of a card or a roll of film and am suspecting that a good opportunity is imminent then I'll replace the card/film without finishing it to allow me a good number of images in hand.

Camera controls. Multiple ways to input the same control over a function can prove very useful although I try and stick to one way of doing things so that the process of controlling the camera becomes intuitive. The most important aspects of the photographic process for me are positioning, anticipation and timing and I don't want to have my attention diverted from these by controls that aren't intuitive. I try to keep my settings simple and where possible I'll try to find a work around to a problem rather than changing a setting (odds on I'll forget to change it back - ISO being a classic example).

Background. I'll research new subjects in advance so that I'm aware of their full potential as well as the constraints, timing, and any sensitivities that may influence my approach. This includes reviewing my previous attempts at a given subject to identify near misses - this is one reason why I try to keep all my images including the failed attempts. I learn a great deal from looking at these failures and working out what went wrong and how I could improve next time I find myself in a similar situation.

Weather forecast . I'll usually check this in an attempt to anticipate the best film speed to take with me or the sort of light I can expect and at what time of the day the weather might turn and what contingencies I'll have to plan for if the weather is going to be bad.

Previsualisation and hit list. I'll often have a number of potential images in mind when I set out and so that I don't forget something that I'm aiming for (especially if these aspects are time bound) I'll often make a "hit list" of particular subjects that I'm interested in. The trick is to keep an open mind so that I don't fall into the trap of getting tunnel vision and just pursuing the list items.